GLOSSARY OF CLIMBING TERMS

A

American death triangle 

An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor.

Abalakov thread 

A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also called as V-thread.

Ablation zone 

The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.

Abseil 

The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

ACR (Alpine Cock Ring)

An anchor method similar to a cordelette but that is dynamically equalizing. It employs a cord and a rappel ring.

Adze 

A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.

Alpine start 

To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.

Altitude sickness 

A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.[1]

Anchor 

An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope.

Approach 

The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arête 

1. A small ridge-like feature on a steep rock face
2. Arête, a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion
3. A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.

Ascend 

To complete a route or problem.

Ascender 

A device for ascending on a rope.

ATC 

A proprietary belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. ATC stands for air traffic controller.

Atomic belay 

A quick method for setting up a two-point anchor in sport climbing, using the climbing rope to attach to the anchor points.

B

"B"-grade 

A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superseded by the "V" grading system.

Bachar ladder 

A piece of training equipment used to improve campusing and core strength.

Back-clipping 

A potentially hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner.

Bail 

To retreat from a climb.

Barn-door 

If a climber has only two points of contact using either the right or left side of his body, the other half may swing uncontrollably out from the wall like a door on a hinge.

Bashie 

A copperhead intended for pounding into a crack

Belay 

To protect a roped climber from falling by passing the rope through, or around, any type of friction enhancing belay device. Before belay devices were invented, the rope was simply passed around the belayer's hips to create friction.

Belay device 

A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders. AMunter hitch can sometimes be used instead of a belay device.

Belay slave 

Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeated belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.

Bergschrund (or schrund)

A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the headwall. Also called a 'shrund.

Beta 

Advice and/or instructions on how to successfully complete a particular climbing route, boulder problem, or crux sequence.

Beta flash 

The clean ascent of a climb on the first attempt, having previously obtained beta or while having beta shouted up from the ground en route. Also see on-sight.

Biner  

See Carabiner.

Bivy (or bivvy)

From the French "bivouac". A camp, or the act of camping, overnight while still on a climbing route off the ground. May involve nothing more than lying down or sitting on a rock ledge without any sleeping gear. When there is no rock ledge available, such as on a sheer vertical wall, a portaledge that hangs from anchors on the wall can be used.

Bivy-bag 

A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain.

Bollard 

A large knob of rock or ice used as a belay anchor.

Bolt 

A point of protection permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal hanger is attached, having a hole for a biner or ring.

Bolt chopping 

The deliberate and destructive removal of one or more bolts.

Bomb-proof anchor 

A totally secure anchor. Also known as bomber.

Bouldering 

The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.

Bridging 

see Steming

Bucket 

A large handhold.

Bummer 

A slang word, used usually to describe a difficult or uncomfortable hold, often one that tears the skin on the hand.

Bump 

To quickly move up a hand or a foot a small distance from one useful hold to another.

Buildering 

The art of climbing on buildings, which is often illegal.

Buttress 

A prominent feature that juts out from a rock or mountain.

C

Cairn 

A distinctive pile of stones placed to designate a summit or mark a trail, often above the treeline.

Cam 

A spring-loaded device used as protection.

Campus 

The act of climbing without using any feet.

Campus board 

Training equipment used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.

Carabiner 

Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner (pronounced beaner).

Chalk 

A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.

Chalk bag 

A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually carried on a chalkbelt for easy access during a climb.

Chicken head 

see bollard, horn.

Chimney 

A rock cleft with vertical sides mostly parallel, large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses his head, back and feet to apply opposite pressure on the vertical walls.

The process of using such a technique.

Chipping 

Improving a hold by permanently altering the rock. Widely used in the 80's and early 90's, but now considered unethical and unacceptable.

Chock 

A mechanical device, or a wedge, used as anchors in cracks.

A naturally occurring stone wedged in a crack.

Choss 

Loose or "rotten" rock.

Classification 

See Grade.

Clawing 

Use of front points of crampons, ice axe pick and ice hammer pick to climb a slope.

Clean 

To remove equipment from a route.

A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.

To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.

In aid climbing, abbreviated "C", a route that does not require the use of a hammer or any invasive addition of protection (such as pitons or copperheads) into the rock (see protection).

Cleaning tool 

A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.

Climbing area 

A region that is plentiful with climbing routes.

Climbing command 

A short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.

Climbing gym 

Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing. (Usually just called a 'climbing wall' in Britain).

Climbing shoe 

Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.

Climbing technique 

Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.

Climbing wall 

Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.

Clipping in 

The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.

Col 

A small pass or "saddle" between two peaks. Excellent for navigation as when standing on one it's always down in two, opposite, directions and up in the two directions in between those.

Cord lock 

a lock or toggle used to fasten cords with gloved hands. Used on most mountaineering gear.

Cordelette 

A long loop of accessory cord used to tie into multiple anchor points.

Corner 

An inside corner of rock, the opposite to an arête (UK). See Dihedral.

Cornice 

An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.

Couloir 

A steep gully or gorge frequently filled with snow or ice.

Crack climbing 

To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. See jamming and chimney.

Crag 

A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.

Crampons 

Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.

Cramponing 

Using crampons to ascend or descend on ice, preferably with maximum number of points of the crampon into the ice for weight distribution.

Accidentally piercing something with a crampon spike.

Crank 

To pull on a hold as hard as possible.

Crash pad 

A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall. See: Bouldering mat

Crater 

Hitting the ground at the end of a fall instead of being caught by the rope.

Crimp 

A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.

The process of holding onto a crimp.

Crux 

The most difficult portion of a climb.

Cut-loose 

Where a climber's feet swing away from the rock on overhanging terrain, leaving the climber hanging only by their hands. Also known as "Cutting feet."

Cwm 

(Welsh) A hanging valley, or cirque—a steep-walled semicircular basin in a mountain—sometimes containing a lake; also known as a corrie.

D

Daisy chain 

A special purpose type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. It is significantly weaker than a normal sling.

Dead hang 

To hang limp, such that weight is held by ligament tension rather than muscles.

Deadman anchor 

An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.

Deadpoint 

A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.

Deck 

The ground.

To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall.

Deep Water Soloing

Free climbing an area that overhangs a deep enough body of water to allow for a safe fall.

Descender 

A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners. See rappel.

Dexamethasone  

A pharmaceutical drug used in the treatment of high altitude cerebral edema as well as high altitude pulmonary edema. It is commonly carried on mountain climbing expeditions to help climbers deal with altitude sickness.[1]

Dialled 

To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.

Diamox 

A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness. Otherwise known as Acetazolamide.[1]

Dièdre 

A dihedral.

Dihedral 

An inside corner of rock, with more than a 90-degree angle between the faces. See also corner and arête.

Direct aid 

A type of tension climbing consisting of using one or more belay ropes to haul the leader up to the next point of protection.

Double Rope Technique (DRT) 

For alpine and rock climbers this term implies the use of two separate ropes. For tree climbers this term is ambiguous but is usually interpreted as a synonym for Doubled Rope Technique.

Doubled Rope Technique (DdRT) 

A method used primarily by tree climbers where the rope passes over a support/limb and continuously slides over the limb as the climber ascends or descends.

Downclimb 

To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.

Dry tooling 

Using tools for ice climbing like crampons and ice axes on rock.

Dulfersitz 

A method of rappelling, without mechanical tools, where the uphill rope is straddled by the climber then looped around a hip, across the chest, over the opposite (weak) shoulder, and held with the downhill (strong) hand to adjust the shoulder friction and thus the descending speed.

Dynamic belay 

Technique of stopping a long fall using smooth braking to reduce stress on the protection points and avoid unnecessary trauma from an abrupt stop.

Dynamic rope 

A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.

Dynamic motion 

Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. As opposed to static technique where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.

Dyno 

A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and return again once the target hold is caught. Non-climbers would call it a jump or a leap.

E

Edge 

A thin ledge on the rock.

Edging 

Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold. In the absence of footholds, smearing is used.

Egyptian 

A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms while holding a side grip.

Eight-thousander 

A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 metres above sea level.

Eliminate 

A term from bouldering describing a move or series of moves in which either certain holds are placed 'off bounds' or other artificial restrictions are imposed.

Elvis legs 

Wobbly knees resulting from tired legs.

Epic 

An ordinary climb rendered difficult by a dangerous combination of weather, injuries, darkness, or other adverse factors.

Exposure 

Empty space below a climber, usually referring to a great distance above the deck through which the climber could fall.

F

Face climbing 

To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not crack climbing.

Fall 

Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.
A free-solo belay", the quickest way to reach the ground.

Figure Four 

Advanced climbing technique where the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm, and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach. Requires strength and a solid handhold.

Finger board 

Training equipment used to build finger strength.

First ascent 

The first successful completion of a route.

Fist jam 

A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique.

Fixed rope 

A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.

Flagging 

Climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight. Often useful to prevent barn-dooring.

Flake 

A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.

Flapper 

An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape or super glue.

Flash 

To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt after having received beta of some form. Also refers to an ascent of this type. For ascents on the first attempt without receiving beta see on-sight.

Follow 

What the second does.

Font 

The French bouldering grading system.

Fourteener 

Mountain that tops 14,000 feet (4,300 m) in the contiguous United States.

Free climbing 

Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.

Free solo 

Climbing without aid or protection. This typically means climbing without a rope.

French free 

Also known as French climbing, or French freeing, it is the use of aid climbing techniques to bypass a section due to climbing difficulty, rock conditions, etc; typically for only a short section of the total climb.[2]

Frenchies 

An exercise used to develop lock-off strength.

Friction 

Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.

Friend 

A name brand of a type of spring loaded camming device (SLCD), sometimes used to refer to any type of spring loaded camming device.

Flute

A usually insecure fin or flake of rock or ice.

G

Gaston 

A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow.

Gendarme 

A pinnacle or isolated rock tower frequently encountered along a ridge.

Geneva rappel 

A modified dulfersitz rappel using the hip and downhill arm for friction, rather than the chest and shoulder, offering less complexity, but less friction and less control.

Glacier travel 

walking or climbing on a glacier; a rope is usually used to arrest falls into crevasses, but protection is not used.

Glissade 

A usually voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow.

Gorp 

Trail mix for periodic nibbling to keep high energy level between meals on long climbs or hikes. An backronym for 'Good Ol' Raisins & Peanuts'

Grade 

Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficulty of a particular climb or bouldering problem. More often is highly subjective, however.

A surveying term for referring to the slope of an incline. (Grade (geography))

Grigri 

A belay device designed to be easy to use and safer for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl. Many experienced climbers advocate the use of an atc type device for beginners

Gripped 

Scared. Also over gripping the rock.

Grovel 

To climb with obviously poor style or technique.

A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.

Gumby 

An inexperienced (or unsafe) climber.

Gym climbing 

Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.

H

HACE 

High Altitude Cerebral Edema - a severe, and often fatal, form of altitude sickness.[1]

Hand traverse 

Traversing without any definitive footholds, i.e. smearing or heelhooking.

Hangdog 

While lead climbing or on top rope, to hang on the rope or a piece of protection for a rest.

Hanging belay 

Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.

HAPE 

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - a serious form of altitude sickness.[1]

Harness 

See climbing harness. A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.

Haul bag 

A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.

Head point 

See top rope. The practice of top-roping a hard trad route before leading it cleanly.

Headwall 

The region of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.

Helmet 

Also known as a brain bucket or skid lid. It can save your life, but only while worn.

Hexcentric 

A protective device. It is an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.

High Ball 

A boulder, which is usually more than 3-4m high and falling from top can lead to different injuries.

Hold 

A place to temporarily cling, grip, jam, press, or stand in the process of climbing.

Honed 

To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.

Hook 

Equipment used in aid climbing.

A climbing technique involving hooking a heel or toe against a hold in order to balance or to provide additional support.

Horn 

Large, pointed protrusion of rock that can be slung. Typically also makes a good hand hold. See bollard, chicken head.

I

Ice axe 

A handy tool for safety and balance, having a pick/adze head and a spike at the opposite end of a shaft.

Ice hammer 

A lightweight ice axe with a hammer/pick head on a short handle and no spike.

Ice screw 

A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.

Ice piton 

Long, wide, serrated piton once used for weak protection on ice.

Indoor climbing 

See gym climbing.

J

Jamming 

Wedging a body part into a crack.

Jib 

A particularly small foot hold, usually only large enough for the big toe, sometimes relying heavily on friction to support weight.

Jug 

A shortened term for Jumar, both noun and verb.

Jug hold 

A large, easily held hold. Also known simply as a jug.

Jumar 

1. A type of mechanical ascender.
2. To ascend a rope using a mechanical ascender.

K

Karen

See Cairn.

Klemheist knot 

An alternative to the Prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.

Knots 

Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.

L

Lead climbing 

A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb (traditional) or clips the belay rope into preplaced equipment attached to bolts (sport).

Leader Fall 

A fall while Lead climbing. A fall from above the climbers last piece of protection. The falling leader will fall at least twice the distance back to his or her last piece, plus slack and rope stretch.

Lieback 

Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.

Liquid Chalk 

A liquid form of chalk, which holds longer time than normal chalk and is being used on very hard routes and competitions, where every chalking costs too much power.

Locking carabiner 

A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.

Lock-off 

Using tendon strength to support weight on a hand hold without tiring muscles too much.

Low-Angle 

A face climb that is less than vertical; the opposite of an overhang or roof. The same as "slab".

M

Mantle 

A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on a ledge or feature instead of pulling down. In ice climbing, a mantle is done by moving the hands from the shaft to the top of the ice tool and pushing down on the head of the tool.

The external covering of a climbing rope. Climbing ropes use kernmantle construction consisting of a kern (or core) for strength and an external sheath called the mantle.

Match 

To use one hold for two limbs, or to swap limbs on a particular hold.

Moat 

A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.

Mountain rescue 

A friendly team of people that may come and rescue you after an injury or accident. May also search for overdue climbers, at no small peril and expense. Also see coroner and rescue doctrine of negligence law.

Move 

Application of a specific climbing technique to progress on a climb.

Moving together 

Method of climbing – used on easy Alpine ground – in which two or more climbers climb at the same time with running belays between them and fixed belays not being used.

Multi-pitch climbing 

Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.

Munter hitch 

A simple hitch that is often used for belaying without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.

N

Névê 

Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

No-hand rest 

An entirely leg-supported resting position during climbing that does not require hands on the rock.

Nub 

A little hold that only a few fingers can grip, or the tips of the toes.

Nunatak 

A mountain or rock that protrudes through an ice field.

Nut 

A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.

Nut Key 

See Cleaning Tool

O

Objective danger 

Danger in a climbing situation which comes from hazards inherent in the location of the climb, not depending on the climber's skill level. Most often these involve falling rock or ice, or avalanches.

Off-width 

A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams, but is not as large as a chimney.

On-sight 

A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta.

Open book 

An inside angle in the rock. See also dihedral.

Overhang 

A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof.

P

Panic Bear 

A panicking novice climber clinging to hand holds while searching desperately for a foot hold.

Peak-bagging 

To systematically attain designated summits under prescribed conditions.

Peel 

To fall.

Pendulum 

Swinging on taut rope either to reach the next hold in a pendulum traverse or after a fall when the last piece of protection is far to either side.

Pickets 

Long, tubular rods driven into snow to provide a quick anchor.

Pied à plat 

A crampon technique in the French style: to climb on high-angle ice with feet flat on the ice (as opposed to front-pointing).

Pied assis 

A crampon technique in the French style: to rest on high-angle ice with one foot tucked under the buttocks, toes pointed straight down-slope.

Pied en canard 

A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on moderate-angle ice with toes pointed outward; literally, "duck footed".

Pied marche 

A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on low-angle ice with toes pointed straight ahead.

Picknick stop 

A No-hand rest.

Pinkpoint 

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. Also see clean and redpoint.

Pinch Hold 

This is a hold where you must pinch it to hold on. They come in various sizes.

Pitch 

In the strictest climbing definition, a pitch is considered one rope length (50–60 meters). However, in guide books and route descriptions, a pitch is the portion of a climb between two belay points.

Piton 

A flat or angled metal blade of steel which incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is typically used in "aid-climbing" and an appropriate size and shape is hammered into a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed by the last team member.

Piton catcher 

Clip-on string fastened to piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.

Plunge step 

An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.

Pof 

An alternative to chalk made from pine resin. Popular in Fontainebleau but discouraged (or actively forbidden) everywhere else since it deposits a thick, shiny resin layer on the rock and friction can only be achieved by using more pof.

Positive 

Of a hold or part of a hold, having a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use.

Pressure Breathing 

Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude. Also called the "Whittaker wheeze".

Problem 

Used in bouldering, the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb. Same as route in roped climbing.

Protection 

Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.

Equipment or anchors used for arresting falls. Commonly known as Pro.

Prusik 

A knot used for ascending a rope. It is named after Dr Karl Prusik, the Austrian mountaineer who developed this knot in 1931.

To use a Prusik knot for ascending a rope.

Pseudo Leading 

To climb a wall Toprope with having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of Lead climbing clipping. The other rope is normally not connected to any belayer below and is only there to practice the clipping. Usually practiced while learning how to Lead Climb.

Psychological protection 

A piece of protection that everyone knows will not hold a fall, but makes the climber feel better about having gear beneath them anyhow.

Pumped 

To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm), that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. Often easy activities such as holding a camera become difficult or impossible.

Sometimes also used to refer to a feeling of excitement and energy before a climb. The double meaning is often a source of great frustration if without context.

Q

Quickdraw 

Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks. Sometimes called "quickies" or just "draws."

R

Rack 

The set of equipment carried up a climb; also, the part of a harness (consisting of several plastic loops) where equipment is hung, ready to be used.

Rappel 

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. Also known as Abseil or roping down..

Rebolting 

The replacement of bolts on an existing climb.

Red point 

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.

Rest step 

Energy-saving technique where unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, sometimes by "locking" knee of rear leg.

Retro-bolting 

The addition of bolts to an existing climb.

Rodeo clipping

To clip in to the first piece of protection from the ground by swinging a loop of rope so that it is caught by a carabiner. This can only be done when the first piece of gear is already placed.

Roof 

Horizontal overhang.

Rope 

A basic item of climbing equipment that physically connects the climber to the belayer.

Rope jumping 

Jumping from objects using rock climbing equipment.

Route 

The path of a particular climb, or a predefined set of moves.

Runner 

A bit of gear in the rock with the rope attached to it (usually via a quick draw).

Runout 

A lengthy distance between two points of protection which in some, but not all, cases might be perceived as frightening or dangerous. May also be used as an adjective to describe a route, or a section of a route.

A long portion of a route with minimal protection.

Rugosity 

Hold sized area of rock that has rougher texture than its surroundings.

RURP 

Acronym, stands for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. Miniature, postage-stamp sized piton originally designed by Yvon Chouinard

S

Saddle 

A high pass between two peaks, larger than a col.

Sandbag 

A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. Also used as a verb when referring to the act of describing a climbing route as easier than it actually is.

'scend

(contraction of the word ascend, past tense: 'scended.) To cleanly complete a route. ie on-sight, flash, redpoint. Sometimes even on tr.

Scrambling 

A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing.

Screamer 

1. A long and loud fall.
2. A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn up in multiple places to make a shorter length. In the event of a fall the stitching of the sewn sections purposefully rip apart, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber.

Scree 

Small, loose, broken rocks, often at the base of a cliff.

Screw on 

A small climbing hold, screwed onto the wall in climbing gyms. Can be used for feet in a route regardless of its colour. Also referred to as a foot chip, chip or micro.

Second 

A climber who follows the lead, or first, climber.

Self-Arrest 

The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. Also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.

Send 

See 'scend

Serac 

A large ice tower.

Sewing machine leg 

The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Scissor leg", "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee". Can often be remedied by bringing the heel of the offending leg down, changing the muscles used to support the weight of the climber

Sharp end 

The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.

Sherpa

A Sherpa is a person of the ethnic group of the same name that is located in the Himalayan Mountains.

Also a generic term for mountaineering porters in Nepal (usually those working at or above base camp) regardless of their ethnic group

Short fixing

The lead climber switches over to self belaying and continues to climb after reaching a belay and fixing the rope. Meanwhile the second climber jugs the fixed rope and cleans the pitch. When he reaches the belay, he ties in and starts to belay the leader in the traditional way again. When the leader reaches the next belay the process is repeated.

Side pull 

A hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.

Simulclimbing 

A technique where both climbers move simultaneously upward with the leader placing protection which the second removes as they advance. A device known as a Tibloc which allows the rope to only move in a single direction is sometimes used to prevent the second climber from accidentally pulling the lead climber off should the second slip.

Single Rope Technique (SRT) 

The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points.

Sirdar 

Head Sherpa mountain guide.

Sit start 

Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. Noted as SDS in some topo guides.

Slab 

A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. Requires slab climbing techniques.

Slab climbing 

A particular type of rock climbing, and its associated techniques, involved in climbing rock that is less than vertical. The emphasis is on balance, footwork, and making use of very small features or rough spots on the rock for friction.

Slack 

Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.

SLCD 

Abbreviation for spring-loaded camming device, a type of protection device. These are better known by the term cam.

Sling 

Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.

Sloper 

A sloping hold with very little positive surface. A sloper is comparable to palming a basketball.

Smearing 

To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.

Snarg 

A type of tubular ice screw that is inserted by hammering.

Snow fluke 

An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.

Solo climbing 

Setting and cleaning ones own protection on an ascent; climbing by oneself.

Sport climbing 

A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be wellprotected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.

Spotting 

An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering. A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.

Sprag 

A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.

Static 

Of a style of climbing or specific move, not dynamic.

Static rope 

A non-elastic rope. Compare with dynamic rope.

Steep 

Descriptive of any climbing face that is angled beyond vertical. See Overhang.

Stem 

1. The simultaneous use of two widely spaced footholds.
2. Climbing using two faces that are at an angle less than 180° to each other.

Sticht plate 

A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht.

Stick clip 

A long stick on the end of which a climber can affix a quickdraw. It allows the climber to clip a quickdraw to the first bolt on a sport climb while still standing on the ground. This is especially useful if the first bolt is high up, and out of the comfort zone of the climber. A stick clip can be bought or easily made by attaching a quickdraw to a stick with a rubber band.

Stopper 

1. A wedge-shaped nut.
2. A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.

Summit 

1. The high point of a mountain or peak.
2. To reach such a high point.

Swami Belt 

A kind of proto- climbing harness consisting of a long length of tubular webbing wrapped several times around the climbers body and secured with a water knot. Largely eschewed today in favor of commercial harnesses.

Swinging-lieback 

A dynamic form of the lieback described above, rotating off one foot while maintaining a grip with that hand, then grabbing a high handhold at the deadpoint of the swing. This move is frequently reversible, unlike more aerial dynos.

T

Talus 

Large rock fragments forming an often unstable slope below scree.

Teabagging 

When, after a whipper, or long fall, a climber falls past their belayer, who is generally lifted up off the ground.

Technical climbing 

Climbing involving a rope and some means of protection, as opposed to scrambling or glacier travel.

Tension 

A technique for maintaining balance using a taut rope through a point of protection.

Thrutching 

Bad technique or 'body climbing' specifically at Mount Arapiles

Top rope 

To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.

Top-out

To complete a route by ascending over the top of the structure being climbed.

Traditional climbing 

A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection, many traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally with a rack.

Mountain Tramming 

A technique that is typically used while cleaning gear from a steep route. A quickdraw is clipped between the climber's harness and the rope that is threaded through the gear. As the climber is lowered by the belayer, they will descend along the line of the gear.

Trad Rack 

Any equipment you regularly use to climb

Training 

Getting prepared to climb on difficult mountains

Traverse 

To climb in a horizontal direction.

A section of a route that requires progress in a horizontal direction.

A Tyrolean traverse is crossing a chasm using a rope anchored at both ends.

A pendulum traverse involves swinging across a wall or chasm while suspended from a rope affixed above the climber.

Tricam 

A piece of rock climbing protection.

Tuber 

A belay device.

Tufa 

A limestone rib formation that protrudes from the wall which can sometimes fit within the pinching grasp of a climber's hand.

U

Undercling 

A hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.

V

"V"-grade 

A technical grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Sherman.

V-thread 

A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also called abalakov thread.

Verglas 

A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as crampons have insufficient depth for reliable penetration.

W

Wand 

A bamboo stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over glaciers and snow fields.

Webbing 

Hollow and flat nylon strip, mainly used to make slings.

Webolette 

A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.

Weighting 

As in, "weighting the rope." Any time the rope takes the weight of the climber. This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope (see also hangdogging.)

Whipper 

A lead fall from above and to the side of the last clip, whipping oneself downwards and in an arc. Has come to be the term for any fall beyond the last placed or clipped piece of protection.

Wired 

Describes a route or sequence which a climber has rehearsed extensively and thus ascends with ease. See dialled.

Wires 

A slang term for nuts.

Wolf moon

To complete a lead climb during night time.

Woodie 

A home made climbing wall. Often specifically a hybrid between a climbing wall and a fingerboard. Specifically called such because of the wooden panels (usually left unpainted) used to attach the climbing holds to.

X

Y

Yosemite Decimal System 

A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US. The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.15b (as of 2008)

Yabo 

Another name for a Sit start, a 'Yabo start' was named after John 'Yabo' Yablonski[3].

Z

Z-clipping 

Clipping into an anchor with the segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in a tangled configuration of the belay rope.

Zipper fall 

A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn. In some cases when the rope comes taut during a fall, the protection can fail from the bottom up, especially if the first piece was not placed to account for outward and/or upward force.

Z-pulley 

Also Z-system. A particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse.

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